Wednesday, March 26, 2008

Who chose this Backdrop!? Down to the south island for Easter Break

Let me preface this long post by explaining the title. The south island was unbelievable. I'm sure I said this in an email at some point, but really it was just unreal. Every time we turned the corner on our over 2000km road trip around the south island, it seemed like someone had just pulled down a different poster of a scenic backdrop. It was almost like the default landscapes that come on computers and phones. So that's that.

In terms of the actual travels, we (charlie, liz, and I) went from Christchurch on the east coast of the south island northwest through Arthur's Pass, then south down to Queenstown where we picked up Molly R (from my potomac years for those of you who don't know), a loop around to Milford Sound on the west coast, down to the Southern Scenic route along the whole south coast, then back up through Dunedin, and finally all the way back up the east coast to Christchurch for our flight home. This took us from Thursday afternoon till Tuesday evening for a grand total of 2192km traveled.

So the journey begins on our delayed flight out of Auckland on Qantas. In our mad rush to the airport, we discovered that we did not in fact have to be there 30 minutes before our flight but a mere 15. Security was the best I've ever been through, and not too surprisingly I felt much safer since I wasn't basically strip searched and interrogated as they would in the US. I don't think anyone really wants to attack NZ but this is just speculation. So finally upon arrival in Christchurch, we were picked up by the rental car company who gave us Dexter Franklin III our chariot for the trip. A lovely white Mazda Familia, Dexter rocked through and through even though he struggled up hills at no more than the equivalent of ~30mi/hr.

So here we go driving through Arthur's Pass, an amazing cut through Arthur's Pass National Park and Craigiburne Forest Park. This four or so hour drive took us all the way on our cross country road trip to the west coast of the south island. We hit Kumara, a town on the coast and turned south to head down to Franz Josef where we had reservations for the next day to spend all day on a glacier hike. We arrived quite late and just found a random Holiday Park campground where we could set up our tent (a three person villa really.) Charlie called middle that night and was really the only one with appropriate gear. I had a sleeping bag but didn't have ample time or energy to get a sleeping pad before I left Auckland, so with my lovely back I slept on the hard ground. Liz was far worse because she had decided that since she was hot while packing for the trip, she would not need her sleeping bag for the journey. She instead brought a silk liner.... yes we've made fun of her for this "interesting decision" as Charlie would say. It was a sleepless night for her and I, though I did manage to weasel my way onto Charlie's sleeping pad for a good portion of the night. Either way, it was too late for my back by that point. I will say that Charles has gotten quite good at cracking it though.

Well after a night we will try to forget, we got up bright and early to head over to Glacier Guides. They suited us up with Gortex jackets and pants, a couple pairs of sock, gloves, (hats that Liz and I missed out on), crampons (spikes that make it possible to walk on ice), and blister friendly boots that resemble something out of military. The bus ride to the glacier was short, but the hike to the terminal face was about 1:15 minutes. The first bit the large group was together, but after about 30 minutes we ended up splitting into smaller groups for the actual trek. We somehow decided to be in group 1, the fast enthusiastic group, and so off we headed first towards the face. After putting on our crampons we started the trek up thousands of ice stairs, crevaces, and otherwise awesome terrain to the first ice fall. We spent all our time here though there are three or so ice falls before reaching "the frying pan" or the flat top portion of the glacier. Franz Josef Glacier, one of two in the area (Fox Glacier is the other,) is located in a temperate rain forest. It's one of 3 in the world. The other two being in Patagonia, Argentina, and Fox Glacier down the road. The reason it's able to survive in this rainy warm climate is because of it's fast moving pace. Franz Josef Glacier can move up to 20cm a day! So that's pretty cool I think. I don't much know how to describe this experience other than to say that Jason was an amazing guide who made us explain the US election process (which we soon realized sounds ridiculous.) In NZ the way elections work is quite simple in comparison. I don't want to go about explaining it all here, but really you vote for the party you want to hold office, and then also a party that you want to have a seat in Parliament. This is a very basic description but the general idea. Also, there are no candidates, whichever party wins choses the candidate they want to represent them. So there we go. Look it up, it's what they use in some parts of europe as well. Moving on...we had an amazing 8 hours with the Glacier and our guides. The pictures are up on facebook and in the snapfish album I sent out.


After Franz Josef we headed south towards Queenstown where we knew we had to pick up Molly the next day. It was late by the time we headed out but since we didn't really stop to eat most of the time (PB&J, crackers, and fruit), we made pretty good time. Eventually we stopped in Albert Town a good 60km+ outside of Queenstown for another fun camping night. At some point not too long after we went to sleep liz freaked out because she though the wind/rain was some sort of animal person, and she just launched herself across charlie and I. I don't know how she moved that fast because she doesn't often make such quick movements, but it woke grumpy Charlie up (he was on the far side from her), and made me laugh uncontrollably for 5 minutes. Charlie, the chivalrous gentleman gave me his sleeping pad for the rainy night. Once again, he slept well, liz just got cold and wet again even though she had on every article of clothing she brought and Charlie's fleece, and I just had a hurt back as per usual. I did sleep more but was still unbelievably tired and cold in the morning. Either way, this all was hilarious and since we picked up molly the next day, the small tent was out of the question for the rest of the trip. Plus it smelled horrendous and was wet.

The morning brought an air show road block followed by a white knuckle ride down a windy road to Queenstown. We happened upon the airport on our way into town and had perfect timing picking up Molly off her flight. good karma. We headed straight into town where we met up with Jane for coffee and breakfast (Jane's one of our directors.) The garage was a great cafe and quite refreshing. I was still in my pajamas, which was just unfortunate looking. Post this first meal in two days, we went bungee jumping! Kawarau Bridge is the original site of bungee jumping in 1988.

It's 43metres tall over the Kawarau River just between Queenstown and Cromwell. Amazing is all I have to say. I would love to go again in different place, possibly tandem off the Harbor Bridge in Auckland?? All four of us took the plunge without any major incident. They lower you into a boat at the bottom after letting you dangle upside down for a bit. I have a video of it, which is brings back the rush every time I watch it. We went to a pro rugby game after the jump. We only got there for the second half, and this very nice lady let us in for the kids ticket price. The whole thing was set up so most everyone was sitting on this slanted grass ring around the field. The field was surrounded by mountains (another back drop.) Mostly it was beautiful again and the rugby was great.

The night we spent finding a hostel in the packed Easter weekend rush followed by hanging out with Lyns, Jess, and Vikki (and there friend Charlotte) at a club called Altitude. We actually ended up seeing some of the Ausie rugby players at this club too. It was nice to see the girls and hang out for a bit, though it was too short for my tastes. We ate a long breakfast in the morning as well, but had to rush out to head off to Milford Sound. Lynsey and I kept realizing how weird it was that we were sitting in a club in NZ together. This is us at altitude (the first place I didn't get carded...though I think it's because I walked in with all the other guys who don't look 12.)


Let me just say that the drive to Milford was the craziest drive ever. The people at the cruise boat said I couldn't make it there in time so I took it and ran. Without speeding I will say, I drove us down this great windy road through the mtns, rainforest, and otherwise beautiful scenery down to Milford Sound where we made it with 14 minutes to spare! I felt like a rock star for making it, but was so tired from all the concentration. The others had a joke that I took on a different driving persona with my sideways Oberlin Horsecows hat and sunglasses. Good stuff.

Once again, the cruise was crazy awesome. We went up right underneath a waterfall, got soaking wet, and mostly just cruised along the Fiord. A fiord is caused by a glacier and a sound is caused by a river. Both are basically drowned river valleys. It's called Milford Sound because the British were wrong again. It should be Milford Fiord fyi. It gets the second most amount of rain in the entire world. lots and lots of metres.

Charlie drove back up the road and we headed for a hiking trail along Milford road. We did this 5k hike and ended just as dark was hitting. We started at the divide and went up to the terminal peak along a portion of the Routeburn Trail.

We left this for Te Anau where we had accommodation for the night at a small hostel. Good pizza and some sleep and we were off the next morning for a long drive along the scenic southern route. It took us along the south coast of the island through Invercargill and back up to Dunedin. Once again, amazing. Highlights included the Catlins, curio bay, Moeraki Boulders, and the southern most tip of the south island. There was a sign there pointing to both the equator and Antarctica. Antarctica was closer of course.


We spent the night at this great hostel called the asylum. It was extremely homey and warm, I plan on going back someday. The owner had all these awesome old cars and the dorms were in the old administration building of a mental asylum. it's no longer there...

Mostly this was all the craziness of our weekend. There are lots of little things along the way, but I'll just have to add those in conversations along the way with you all. I'm going away this weekend with the Arcadia kids to one of our directors' parent's home near the Bay of Islands (north of north island.) Hope all is well! Obies, enjoy your spring break. I've added more pictures above since it's hard to format in the blog.

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